Torque Converter: Functions, Parts, Working Principles, and Types

April, 2019

A torque converter is a type of fluid coupling which is used to transfer rotating power from the engine of a vehicle to the transmission. It takes place of mechanical clutch in an automatic transmission. The main function of it is to allow the load to be isolated from the main power source. It sits in between the engine and transmission. It has the same function as the clutch in the manual transmission. As the clutch separates the engine from the load when it stops, in the same way, it also isolates the engine from a load and keeps engine running when the vehicle stops. 

Cars with automatic transmissions don’t have clutches, so they need a way to let the engine keep running while the wheels and gears in the transmission come to a stop. Manual transmission cars use a clutch that disconnects the engine from the transmission. Automatic transmissions use a torque converter. 

When the engine is idling, such as at a stop light, the amount of torque going through the torque converter is small but still enough to require some pressure on the brake pedal to stop the car from creeping. When you release the brake and step on the gas, the engine speeds up and pumps more fluid into the torque converter, causing more power (torque) to be transmitted to the wheels.

Credit : Freepik.com

FUNCTIONS OF TORQUE CONVERTER

Its main functions are:

1. It transfers the power from the engine to the transmission input shaft.
2. It drives the front pump of the transmission.
3. It isolates the engine from the load when the vehicle is stationary.
4. It multiplies the torque of the engine and transmits it to the transmission. It almost doubles the output torque.

PARTS OF TORQUE CONVERTER

The torque converter has three main parts

1. Impeller or Pump

The impeller is connected to the housing and the housing connected to the engine shaft. It has curved and angled vanes. It rotates with the engine speed and consists of automatic transmission fluid. When it rotates with the engine, the centrifugal force makes the fluid move outward. The blades of the impeller are designed in such a way that it directs the fluid towards the turbine blades. It acts as a centrifugal pump which sucks the fluid from the automatic transmission and delivers it to the turbine.

2. Stator

The stator is located in between the impeller and turbine. The main function of the stator is to give direction to the returning fluid from the turbine so that the fluid enters the impeller in the direction of its rotation. As the fluid enters in the direction of the impeller, it multiplies the torque. So stator helps in the torque multiplication by changing the direction of the fluid and allows it to enter in the direction of the impeller rotation. The stator changes the direction of fluid almost up to 90 degrees. The stator is mounted with a one-way clutch that allows rotating it in one direction and preventing its rotation in other direction. Turbine is connected to the transmission system of the vehicle. And the stator is placed in between the impeller and turbine.

3. Turbine

Turbine is connected to the input shaft of the automatic transmission. It is present on the engine side. It also consists of curved and angled blades. The blades of the turbine are designed in such a way that it can change the direction of the fluid completely that strikes on its blades. It is the change in the direction of the fluid that forces the blades to move in the direction of the impeller. As the turbine rotates the input shaft of the transmission also rotates and made the vehicle to move. The turbine is also having a lock-up clutch at its back. The lock-up clutch comes into play when the torque converter achieves coupling point. the lockup eliminates the loses and improves the efficiency of the converter.

WORKING PRINCIPLE OF TORQUE CONVERTER

For understanding the working principle of a torque converter, let’s take two fans. One fan is connected to the power source and other is not connected with the power source. When the first fan connected to the power source starts moving, the air from it flows to the second fan which is stationary. The air from the first fan strikes on the blades of the second fan and it also starts rotating almost at the same speed to the first one. When the second fan is stopped, it does not stop the first one. The first fan keeps rotating. 

On the same principle, the torque converter works. In that, the impeller or pump acts as the first fan which is connected to the engine and turbine act as the second fan which is connected to the transmission system. When the engine runs, it rotates the impeller and due to the centrifugal force the oil inside the torque converter assembly directed towards the turbine. As it hits the turbine blades, the turbine starts rotating. This makes the transmission system rotate and the wheels of the vehicle move. When the engine stops, the turbine also stops rotating but the impeller connected the engine keeps moving and this prevent the killing of the engine.

It has three stages of operations

1. Stall:

During stall (stop) condition of the vehicle, the engine is applying power to the impeller but the turbine cannot rotate. This happens, when the vehicle is stationary and the driver has kept his foot on the brake peddle to prevent it from moving. During this condition maximum multiplication of torque takes place. As the driver removes its foot from the brake paddle and presses the accelerator paddle, the impeller starts moving faster and this set the turbine to move. At this situation, there is a larger difference between the pump and turbine speed. The impeller speed is much greater than the turbine speed.

2. Acceleration:

During acceleration, the turbine speed keeps on increasing, but still, there is a large difference between the impeller and turbine speed. As the speed of the turbine increases the torque multiplication reduces. During acceleration of the vehicle the torque multiplication is less than that is achieved during the stall condition.

3. Coupling:

It is a situation when the turbine achieved approximately 90 percent speed of the impeller and this point is called a coupling point. The torque multiplication seizes and becomes zero and the torque converter behaves just like a simple fluid coupling. At the coupling point, the lock-up clutch comes into play and locks the turbine to the impeller of the converter. This puts the turbine and impeller to move at the same speed. Lock up clutch engages only when the coupling point is achieved. During coupling, the stator also starts to rotate in the direction of the impeller and turbine rotation.

NOTE:

1. The maximum torque multiplication takes place during stalling condition. 

2. The stator remains stationary before coupling point and helps in the torque multiplication. As the coupling attained, stator stops torque multiplication and starts rotating with the impeller and turbine. 

3. Lock up clutch engages when the coupling point is achieved and removes the power losses resulting in increased efficiency.

TYPES OF TORQUE CONVERTER

1. Single Stage Torque Converters

The beauty of single-stage converters is their tough, reliable simplicity. Each converter consists basically of three elements: the turbine, the stator, and the impeller. Single-stage converters come in two types of housing — stationary and rotating. Depending on the model, single-stage torque converters boast a variety of capabilities: Sumpless single-stage converters with PTO drives are ideal for applications with power-shift transmissions and driving auxiliary hydraulic pumps. High-torque ration converters with stationary housing feature extraordinary hoisting and lowering capabilities. Type Four hydraulic converters are designed specifically for the oil and gas industry.

2. Three Stage Torque Converters

Three-stage torque converters employ three rings of turbine blades, as well as two sets of reactor or stator blades. The effect of this design is increased torque — up to five times the amount of engine output torque, in fact, when the engine is at a stall. Depending on the specific design, three-stage converters are rated for a range of engines, including 335 hp at 2400 rpm, 420 hp at 2200 rpm, and 580 hp at 2,200 rpm. Three-stage converters also come with both stationary and rotating housing.

Advantages

• It produces the maximum torque as compared with the vehicle equipped with a clutch.


• It removes the clutch pedal.


• It makes the job of driving a vehicle easier.

Disadvantages

• Its fuel efficiency is low as compared with the vehicle with manual transmission.

Application

• The torque converter is used in the vehicle that is equipped with automatic transmission. It is also used in industrial power transmissions such as conveyor drives, winches, drilling rigs, almost all modern forklifts, construction equipment, and railway locomotives.


• It is used in marine propulsion systems.

TORQUE CONVERTER PROBLEMS

Don’t be misled into thinking you need expensive repairs or even a full transmission replacement.

An accurate diagnosis by a trained transmission technician will tell you what the problem is and what repairs you need. Sure, replacing the torque converter isn’t cheap, but it’s definitely less costly than a new transmission. Diagnosing the cause of a transmission issue isn’t easy.

Signs of A Failing Torque Converter

Shaking and Shuddering

If your car shakes and shudders, it might mean the lockup clutch is failing or needs adjustment. You’ll experience the car shaking at speeds around 35-45 miles per hour. It’s a problem you cannot miss. It feels like you’re driving on a grated dirt road with a lot of small ridges. A worn out lockup clutch can make the transition from acceleration to cruising speed uncomfortable, to say the least – and it’s a sign you need to have your transmission checked.

Overheating

If your car overheats regularly, it might be a sign the transmission fluid is low. Low fluid results in low pressure, which means the torque converter can’t do its job. Additionally, low fluid can cause the torque converter to malfunction. If the converter is overheating, it won’t be able to transfer power from the engine to the transmission. This results in poor acceleration and excessive wear and tear on the transmission.

Slipping

A damaged fin in the torque converter can cause faltering in the transmission as it shifts, or the transmission to totally slip out of gear. This is due to the engine torque not being converted into the hydraulic pressure the transmission needs to shift gears. Slipping can also be caused by too little or too much fluid in the transmission.

Increased Stall Speed

A malfunctioning or failing torque converter will cause the transmission to take longer to engage with the engine. This results in high stall speeds. There is a way to test for this, but you must know your engine’s and torque converter’s speed specifications. 

Strange sounds are always a sign of something troublesome… 

Any weird sounds such as clicking, revving, clunking, or whining indicate possible problems with the torque converter – or the transmission. Whichever the case may be, you won’t know until you pay attention to those noises, take heed, and take your car to a qualified expert transmission technician.

Also read: How to spot a slow puncture and what to do if you have one

To Know More About Honda Car service center in Borivali VisitSolitaire Honda Mumbai, Contact us at 022 67385588 or email us at info@solitairehonda.com

Car Battery Problems: When is it Time for a New Battery?

April, 2019

“If I only knew sooner.” Yep, we’ve all been there before. Fortunately, there are a few symptoms that may indicate your battery needs attention. Before it’s too late.

Credit : freepik.com 

It’s Time for a New Battery When You Notice

This is false. Scratches can only be necessarily removed from paint finish when the thickness of the paint is reduced down. Scratch removers do this by buffering hairline scratches as it acts as a non-abrasive paint cleaner. The wax solution only manages to cover the scratches for a short time and if it rains then the solution wears out.

1. Slow Engine Crank:

When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start.

2. Check Engine Light:

The check engine light sometimes appears when your battery power is weak.

3. Low Battery Fluid Level:

Car batteries typically have a part of the casing that’s translucent so you can always keep an eye on your battery’s fluid level. If the fluid level is below the lead plates : (energy conductor:) inside, it’s time to have the battery and charging system tested.

4. The Swelling, Bloating Battery Case:

If your battery casing looks like this you can blame excessive heat for causing your battery case to swell, decreasing your battery life.

5. Battery Leak:

Leaking also causes corrosion around the posts : (where the + and – cable connections are located.: ) The gunk may need to be removed; otherwise, your car may not start.

6. Old Age:

Your battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three-year mark.

Top Questions and Answers

How could a battery drain overnight?

Batteries can do a lot of things while we’re not looking. The most common way a battery will drain overnight is by leaving a light on or a power adapter plugged in, zapping all your battery power while you’re fast asleep.

Your battery can also drain overnight if there are faulty electrical components or wiring. If this might be the case, let us check it out so we can resolve the problem and get you rolling again.

• Schedule a Battery Inspection. Enter your Zip Code for nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care.
• Find the right Interstate Battery for your specific vehicle, at the right price — right now. Get a free online Battery Price Quote .
• Take advantage of our current deals and specials on battery replacements.

What factors will affect the life of my car battery?

So, you want to know if your battery will last three years or, better yet, five years, eh? Well, that all depends on your driving habits, plus the year-round climate in your area. 1. Short Trips. Shorter battery life. If you take many short trips (less than 20 minutes), your battery won’t have enough time to fully recharge, shortening its overall life expectancy. 2. Extreme temperatures kill batteries. The dog days of summer take the biggest toll on your battery. Scorching temperatures—and even freezing temperatures—can shorten battery life. A lot of times, waiting until the deep freeze of winter to replace your battery is often too late. The cold weather could pretty much make that heat worn battery dead on arrival. 3. Find your region. Discover the average battery life.

QUICK STEPS:

• Use our Virtual Battery Tester and discover how long a car battery will typically last in your specific make and model vehicle.
• Price out your next Interstate Battery. Discover the exact price and the Interstate Battery designed for your vehicle.

What are the warning signs that my battery is failing?

“If I only knew sooner.” We’ve all been there before. Fortunately, there are various indications and symptoms that your battery may need replacement:

1. Slow engine crank: When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start. You’d best describe it as the “rur rur rur” starting noise sound. 

2. Check engine light: The check engine light sometimes appears when your battery power is weak. Strange system indicator lights – such as check engine and low coolant lights – could mean there’s a problem with your battery. (It could also just mean you need more coolant).

3. Low battery fluid level: Car batteries typically have a part of the casing that’s translucent so you can always keep an eye on your battery’s fluid level. You can also inspect it by removing the red and black caps if they are not sealed (most modern car batteries now permanently seal these parts).

Bottom line: If the fluid level is below the lead plates (energy conductor) inside, it’s time to have the battery and charging system tested. When fluid levels drop, it’s typically caused by overcharging (heat). 

4. The swelling, bloating battery case: If your battery casing looks like it ate a very large meal, this could indicate a battery gone bad. You can blame excessive heat for causing your battery case to swell, decreasing your battery life. 

5. Eww, there’s a stinky, rotten egg smell: You may notice a pungent, rotten egg smell (sulfur odor:) around the battery. The cause: Battery leaks. Leaking also causes the corrosion around the posts (where the (+) and (–) cable connections are located.) The gunk may need to be removed; otherwise, your car may not start. 

6. Three years + battery age is considered an old timer: Your battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three year mark. Battery life cycles range from three-to-five years depending on the battery. However, driving habits, weather and frequent short trips (under 20 minutes) can drastically shorten the actual life of your car battery.

• Be safe. Have your battery tested.
• Save with special deals on new battery installations.
• Find the right Interstate Battery for your specific vehicle, at the right price — right now. Get a free online Battery Price Quote

Help your battery life with the little things.

Imagine waking up to a dead car battery. It isn’t fun. At all. But because batteries can do stuff when we’re not looking, we need to help them go the distance. That means turning off all interior and exterior lights when exiting your ride. It’s important to unplug power adapters, too. Naturally, we’re also here to keep watch. Our Early Detection Analyzer determines how much life is left in your battery. If something is awry, Firestone Complete Auto Care technicians are pros at delivering a fix.

• Stop in for a complete electrical check.
• Read up on our current battery deals and specials.
• Test your car battery life with our Virtual Battery Tester.
• Find the right Interstate Battery for your exact vehicle — at the right price.
• Enter your zip code to find a store near you.

Also read: Common car dashboard warning lights explained

To Know More About Honda Car Service Center in Mumbai , Visit Solitaire Honda Car service center OR Contact us at 022 67385588 or email us at info@solitairehonda.com

Car maintenance myths busted

April, 2019

A car is one of the most cherished material possessions for a person. After spending careful thought and hard-earned money on your favourite car, it certainly is a problem when the car's performance begins to dip. The lowered level of happiness with the car can be attributed to maintainence problems. However, before you think of horrible long drawn bills in your hand, we help you with what you need to be doing actually.

First thing we have to keep in mind is, when in doubt never hesitate to ask. Even if you may think it may sound silly. End of the day it is your car and if there are any damages you have to pay for it. Even the best of intentions may make you spend money or, worse, compromise the safety of your car. After all when it comes to in-car maintenance, misconceptions are something that take place more often than not. Everyone believes he is an expert in car maintenance, so we checked out the following myths.

1. Wax can remove scratches

This is false. Scratches can only be necessarily removed from paint finish when the thickness of the paint is reduced down. Scratch removers do this by buffering hairline scratches as it acts as a non-abrasive paint cleaner. The wax solution only manages to cover the scratches for a short time and if it rains then the solution wears out.

2. Wash car with detergents

This is also false as dish cleaning solutions and washing clothes detergents do clean the car but they also strip waxes and other protective coatings off the paint finish. Initially the car may appear all shiny and clean but in the long run it will speed up the oxidation process and shorten the life of your car’s paint.

3. Car idling is necessary

Wrong again! Modern engines do not need more than a few seconds of idling time before they can be driven safely. That too only in extreme cold temperatures. Therefore, the best way to warm up a car is to drive it, since that warms up the catalytic converter and other mechanical parts of the car, in addition to the engine. Also, if you are idling longer than 10 seconds, you should switch off the engine as the only thing you are achieving is wasting fuel and burning a hole in your wallet.

4. Jump-start equivalent to full charge battery

False. It could take hours of driving to restore a battery’s full charge. The reason for this could be power accessories such as the air conditioner, which draws a lot of electricity. The best solution is to switch off the AC and drive to a service station where the experts can determine whether the battery can still hold its charge. Don't take it for granted that the battery is okay after a jump-start as the next morning you may again face starting problems.

5. Dealer's service station is the best

There is absolutely no data to back this claim. This is more of the false sense of security we have in our minds that the dealer from whom you have bought the car will automatically give it the best servicing possible. Just keep one thing in mind that your warranty will remain valid as long as car has gone to an official recognised service centre. We suggest try two-three different service centres so that you will know exactly which one gives your car the best service. Always refer to the owner's manual to know when what specific service is required. Also keep accurate records and receipts so that you can back up claims in case your warranty comes under dispute.

6. Brake fluid solves it all

False. The level in the brake-fluid reservoir reduces a bit when the brake pads wear out. So don't just blindly top up the brake fluid and think all is fine. Of course if the fluid level drops to or below the Low mark on the reservoir, then you should top up the fluid. But also be aware that spongy brakes can be induced by wearing of brake pads. In either case get the braking system checked immediately.

7. Inflate tyres according to side wall

Absolutely false. The figure molded into the sidewall is the tyre’s maximum inflation pressure. Instead, follow the inflation pressure recommendations outlined in your car owner’s manual or placard, typically located on the door post or fuel-filler flap. The pounds-per-square-inch (psi) figure on the side of the tyre provides the best balance of braking, handling, fuel mileage, and ride comfort. Perform a monthly pressure check when tyres are cold or after the car has been parked for a couple of weeks.

8. Use extra coat of wax

Totally senseless. A capital NO. There is absolutely no need to apply more than one coat of wax to a car. Too much wax can leave the finish with a dull look instead of a clean and shiny one. Not to mention your vehicle will have a greasy, old worn out car look. When you wax a car you have to buff it off with a clean soft cloth. So if you are already taking off the excess wax so please explain to us the logic of adding extra wax coat only to wipe it off the car's body.

9. Flush out the coolant

Replacing or flushing out the coolant has no relation with engine oil change as they both have different life cycles. So don't fall for it if your mechanic tells you that we might as well change the coolant as we are changing the engine oil. Unless it is extremely hot or there is a leak in the tank the coolant should not be flushed out before three years or the recommended time cycle. You can top it up during the coolant's life cycle. However if colour changes to brown replace at once.

10.Higher octane better fuel

Not true. Most vehicles run perfectly alright on regular-grade (87 octane) fuel. Using premium in these cars won't hurt, but it won't improve performance, either. A higher-octane number simply means that the fuel is less prone to pre-ignition problems, so it's often specified for hotter running, highcompression engines. So if your car is designed for 87-octane fuel, don't waste money on premium.

Also read: 7 ways to protect your car from the summer heat

To Know More About Honda Car Service Center in Borivali Mumbai , Visit Solitaire Honda Car service center OR Contact us at 022 67385588 or email us at info@solitairehonda.com

Common car dashboard warning lights explained

April, 2019

Modern cars are filled to bursting with technology. There are sensors to monitor engine temperature, brakes, airbags, oil, batteries and more. And while there are a series of common symbols, which we’ve explained here, some will be common to your vehicle and so it’s vital you look through your car’s owner manual.

Bear in mind that when you turn your car on, all of the warning lights will usually momentarily light up as the car cycles its systems. If one of the dashboard warning lights stays illuminated once the others have extinguished, then it’s either alerting you to an issue, or it could just be a faulty sensor.

Engine Warning Light (or Check Engine Light, CEL) If the engine warning light illuminates, then it’s likely to be accompanied by a mechanical symptom. Either a sudden loss of power (which suggests the car has gone into limp mode to protect itself), or a stutter, or anything that suggests the engine is not behaving as normal. If the warning light stays on and there is a definite mechanical symptom then pull over the side of the road, as long as it’s safe, and then call for roadside assistance. Even if you don’t have roadside assistance cover you can arrange for it over the telephone. You don’t want to risk driving the car to your local mechanic as it could cause further and irreparable damage to the engine.

Credit : Freepik.com

Brake warning light Quite

Often you’ll see the brake warning light (shown in main image above) illuminate if the handbrake hasn’t been fully released. The car will move off but the light will stay on and the car will feel retarded, quite often the light will be accompanied by a chime. If you’ve released the handbrake and the light is still illuminated, then you’ll need to have your car checked out by a mechanic immediately. It could mean you’re low on brake fluid, or a sensor has failed. Either way, it’ll pay to have this issue checked out.

Coolant/antifreeze warning light

Your car’s temperature gauge is one of those things you probably never even notice, and when all is going well and your car’s coolant levels are bang-on the temperature gauge will usually rise to half-way and then stay there. However, if the gauge starts to show the engine’s temperature is rising, or you see a warning light on the dashboard before you notice the temperature gauge then it means you’re either low on coolant/antifreeze or it could mean your engine’s overheating. A quick look at the temperature gauge will tell you which one.

Oil warning light

If the oil warning light flashes up onto your dashboard, then it could be one of three things. And that is that the oil temperature is too high, or that the oil level or pressure is too low. While the latter two are the worst case scenarios you don’t want the temperature to get too high either. Oil keeps your car’s engine lubricated and, so, if you see the oil warning light illuminate then stop your car and contact your local mechanic.

Battery charge warning light

Your car’s battery light should illuminate for a second or two when the car is started, but if it hasn’t gone out once the car is idling then there’s likely to be an issue. That issue could be with your car’s alternator, which keeps the battery charged while you’re driving around, or it could be a bad connection, or it might fade in and out when starting the car indicating the battery is dying. If your car’s battery warning light does illuminate and your car won’t start then you should contact roadside assistance or, if you’re handy, buy a replacement battery and swap it over yourself.

Tyre pressure warning light

Many modern cars have a tyre pressure monitoring system that will alert you if one of your tyres drops below its set pressure. This needs to be reset every time you fill your car’s tyres with air. If this symbol illuminates, then you’ll need to check your tyres – always carry a tyre pressure gauge in your car.

Traction control / stability control warning light

If you see this symbol permanently illuminated on your dash (see below), then it means you’ve deactivated your car’s traction control system. Practical Motoring doesn’t recommend deactivating the traction control in general driving. There’ll be a button somewhere on your dashboard that turns this safety system back on.

It could also mean your wheel alignment is so far out of true that the electronics can't cope and throw up an error.

If you see this occasionally around corners when driving fast (or badly) it just means that traction control or stability control is working. If you see if illuminate around corners taken normally it may also mean low tyre pressures...as the car is sliding more on low pressure tyres and activating stability control.

Anti-lock brake warning light

There’s no way you can miss this one. If you see the ABS light flash up on your dashboard it will mean there’s a problem with the ABS system in your car. You should be able to drive the car without ABS (although this isn’t true of all cars) and you should be careful about hitting the brakes too hard as without ABS they’re more likely to lock up. Drive your car to your local mechanic without delay.

Seatbelt warning light

This one’s fairly self-explanatory. If you see the seatbelt warning light flash up then it means that someone in the car isn’t wearing their seatbelt. Most car seats have inbuilt pressure sensors to tell when someone’s sitting in the seat but that a seatbelt isn’t being used, there are also sensors in the seatbelt receiver to tell when it’s engaged.

Door/boot warning light

If you see what appears to be a car with its doors open or the boot up, then it’ll mean that either one of the doors or the car’s boot is ajar. You should pull over to the side of the road and close the door again. Sometimes the door can look to be closed and even feel like it’s caught on a catch, but the light will also illuminate if the door is only lightly closed. Modern cars tell you which door is open - older ones just tell you one of the doors isn't closed properly.

Low-fuel warning light

This one’s obvious. If you see the low-fuel warning light illuminated on your dashboard then it means you’re running low on fuel and have somewhere between 80-120km of fuel left. Many cars will also show a distance to empty readout on the dashboard.

Automatic shift lock or engine start warning light

Looking like a foot on a 45-degree angle, this warning light’s telling you you need to place your foot on the brake to either move the gear shifter (for an automatic) from P for Park to D for Drive, or that you need to have your foot on the brake to start the car.

Airbag warning light

Looking like someone balancing a ball on their stomach, this warning light being illuminated suggests there’s a fault with one or more of your airbags, although like most warning lights it is normal for it to illuminate on startup. Take your car to your local mechanic for a check-up.

Fog light activation

It can be easy to inadvertently activate your fog lights, both front and rear (if your car has them) but, if there’s no fog then it’s illegal to drive with them switched on.

Windscreen washer fluid warning light

If you see what looks like a windscreen with a fountain flash up on your dashboard then it means you cars washer fluid is running low.

High beam warning light

This blue warning light (shown in main image above) will illuminate when your high beam headlights are activated. You need to dip them if there’s oncoming traffic to avoid dazzling the driver and causing a collision. Some vehicles fitted with automatic high beam will had a headlight symbol with an A in the middle of it to indicate they are working...doesn't stop it from being a little nervy when you're driving and you don't manually dim the lights...but, of all the vehicles I've tested they seem to be faster at reacting than me.

These are just a handful of the most common warning lights.

Also read: How to spot a slow puncture and what to do if you have one

Back to All Car Maintenance Tips, Tricks, Article, Resources

To Know More About Car Dashboard Lights , Visit Honda Car service center in Borivali, Contact us at 022 67385588 or email us at info@solitairehonda.com

How to spot a slow puncture and what to do if you have one

April, 2019

How do you spot a slow puncture, and if you have one what should you do? Is it safe to just top up the pressure on a regular basis or should you have it attended to immediately? And what could be the cause of a slow puncture? In this article we explain all...

The tyres on your car are perhaps its most vital safety component; they might only have a small contact patch with the road but they’re literally keeping the car on it. Ensuring your car is equipped with good quality tyres that are in decent condition could well save someone’s life, so it’s vital to monitor the condition of the tyres on a regular basis. This is especially true these days, as extended service intervals means trips to the dealership for regular maintenance are few and far between.

While we’re all aware of the requirements to have tyres with a decent tread depth – the legal minimum is 1.6mm in a continuous band around the central three-quarters of a tyre – we tend to pay less attention to the possibility that one or more of the tyres on our cars might have a slow puncture.

Credit : Freepik.com

What are the visual signs of a slow puncture?

If you’ve recently passed your driving test, you will no doubt be familiar with the guidance in the Highway Code that you should give your car a visual inspection before you drive away, but many of us may have forgotten this good advice. Have a check around your car to see if any of the tyres appear to be of a different shape – do any of them look to be sagging under the weight of the car?

In extreme cases in which a tyre has been under-inflated for some time you may notice some sidewall damage to the tyre, with the maker’s name and tyre numbering becoming worn away where the sidewall of the tyre has been in contact with the road.

You can examine the tyre tread for anything that shouldn’t be there; screws, nails or other debris that’s become lodged in the tyre tread. If you do spot something like this, you’ll be faced with the conundrum of whether to remove it or not. There’s a chance that while the foreign object may have pierced the tread it hasn’t actually made it all the way through so removing it immediately will prevent any further damage. Conversely, it might actually be plugging the hole and keeping the tyre inflated - removing it will cause the tyre to deflate. If you do remove a foreign body from the tyre, try putting a few drops of water onto the damaged area – this will allow you to spot air bubbles escaping from the tyre so you can take immediate action and have the tyre repaired or replaced.

Spotting a slow puncture while driving

When you’re behind the wheel, turn off the radio and listen carefully for the telltale ticking noise that you will experience if there is a foreign body in the tyre tread – the noise will speed up and slow down with the pace of the car.

You may also notice a difference in the way the car handles. Does it tend to pull to one side or the other if you hold the steering wheel very lightly? Does the car always seem to want to pull in one direction when braking? Does the car’s road-holding seem affected or does it wallow when going over bumps? If you experience any of these then you should stop and inspect your tyres, or take it to a tyre dealer for a closer inspection.

Checking the pressures

With extended service intervals our cars tend to see the inside of a workshop less frequently so it’s worthwhile investing in a hand-held tyre pressure gauge or a foot pump with a gauge attached. They don’t tend to be very expensive and spotting one slow puncture before it becomes an issue could well save far more money than the purchase price of the gauge or pump. Checking the tyre pressures on a weekly basis is good practice and should take no more than a few minutes.

We’d advise against relying on the gauges found on petrol forecourts as they can be inaccurate and are frequently out of order. They have a hard life – they can be driven over and dropped by careless users – and ideally your tyre pressures should be checked when they’re cold. Tyres become hotter when you drive your car and the hot air inside the tyres can lead to inaccurate pressure readings.

If you have a car that was registered after 1 November 2012, or one that was produced before that date which has run-flat tyres, then your car will be equipped with a tyre pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) so you should get a warning from the car if it detects a tyre is low on pressure.

Can slow punctures be repaired?

Whether a slow puncture can be repaired or not will very much depend on what has caused the puncture and for how long it’s existed. The best course of action will be to take your car to a tyre specialist as soon as you become aware of the puncture. Driving on a punctured tyre for longer than is necessary could well be dangerous and may end up costing more money, as a tyre that’s been driven on in a semi-inflated state may not be repairable.

If debris or a foreign object piercing the tread is the cause of the slow puncture, then the chances are that the tyre can be repaired. If the damage is right at the edge of the tread by the sidewall then it can’t be repaired.

However, if the tyre has been driven on in a deflated state for a period of time, the tyre dealer may refuse to repair it. Once the tyre has been removed from the wheel rim the tyre dealer will be able to assess whether the sidewall of the tyre has been weakene; if this is the case you will need to buy a new tyre.

One exception to the rule of puncture repairs to the tread is in the case of run-flat tyres. These tyres are designed to be driven on for a distance when ‘flat’ – usually 50-100 miles depending on manufacturer and the load in the vehicle – and as a result they have much stiffer sidewalls than normal tyres. This makes it almost impossible for a tyre dealer to know whether or not the structure of the tyre has been affected, so the majority of the major national chains will refuse to repair them.

If the tyre has sidewall damage, either from hitting a pothole, kerb, or from having some debris from the road lodged in it, then you will also need a new tyre as its structure will have been affected.

Slow punctures can, in some cases, be caused by a faulty tyre valve. If the valve dust cap has gone missing, dust and grit can get into the valve causing it to lose air. In this situation the tyre can be removed from the wheel rim and the faulty valve can be replaced.

It’s also possible that a slow puncture could be the result of a damaged wheel rim. On older cars with steel rims it’s possible that rust has built up on the wheel rim, which can lead to the tyre having a less than perfect seal where it joins the wheel rim. Similarly, a wheel rim that has been damaged by a kerb or pothole could cause a slow puncture. In the case of split rims fitted to some high-performance cars, there could be a leak where the parts of the wheel join together. In this situation you should have the wheel sent to a specialist for repair or source a new one.

In extreme cases it is also possible for the metal of the wheel to become porous over time, but this is very unusual and is most likely to occur with specialist magnesium wheels.

You might also be tempted to use a can of tyre sealant to cure a slow puncture but this isn’t recommended. Tyre sealant is generally a product used to temporarily repair a puncture when on the road or motorway, and isn’t recommended for permanent repairs. It’s also worth noting that once this type of sealant has been used it may make the tyre unrepairable so should really only be used in an emergency.

The best practice is to inspect the condition and pressure of your car’s tyres on a regular basis - once a week if possible. Ignoring a slow puncture can be dangerous as a partially inflated tyre will cause an imbalance to your car’s road-holding and braking performance. Driving on a tyre with a slow puncture can easily damage the tyre, meaning you will have to pay for a replacement rather than a repair.

Also read: 40 Ways You Are Killing Your Car

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Source - www.msn.com